Tuesday 31st August - Wallingford - Perhaps the best thing, for us, about living on a boat is being so close to the landscape and the elements.  Even when we are not cruising we spend a lot of time in the open air and when inside the boat one of the side hatches and/or the top half of the front doors will be open, cratch sides rolled up.  In a house we never had doors and windows wide open, except on the hottest of days.  We get to experience the highs and lows of our weather (pun fully intended) in a way one never does whilst working in an office, factory or living in a house.  One of the nice things about a flattish landscape like the Thames Valley is the big sky and massive cloud formations, a picture missed in a city or in upland regions unless you get up very high.  Of course those big clouds are the harbingers of rain but the sight and sound of a storm with thunder rumbling around and lightening jagging across the sky can be very dramatic, providing the storm passes just far enough away so one avoids the downpour.  The darkening of the sky, temperature dropping and wind rising, sheets of rain visible but not felt and then a brighter sky appearing out of the west as if to save the day.  We have seen quite a few storms come and go this week, no thunder and lightening but heavy rain falling directly on us.  Fortunately we were able to shelter inside the boat until last Wednesday when we caught the beginnings of the rain just before we reached the moorings at Beale Park.  As a consequence of the rain, so sorely needed by the gardeners of the south east, there has been more flow in the River and with some of the rhymers having been opened the weirs by the locks are more active and attractive.

The 40th IWA National Festival & Boat Show was a great success according to the boaters who attended.  Over 400 boats moored, many six abreast along a mile and a half of river bank.  By the Bank Holiday weekend the weather was much improved and although we had a few showers there was no mud on the scale of Cropredy.  We did our stints on the RBOA stand, spent some money with the traders, put a few pennies into some of the canal restoration groups, drank a few pints whilst listening to the evenings' entertainments.  But the best thing about the National is the opportunity to meet up with friends and fellow travellers who you haven't seen for maybe a year or more.  It still is a boaters' rally and we got to catch up with many RBOA members and other boating friends.  Especially good was to see Richard & Irene Chapman and Chris Jones & his partner Jayne, part of the Foxhangers crowd, and to catch up with the news from Devizes.  A good time was had by all.  We awoke this morning to the first autumn mist, so thick it was difficult to see the opposite bank of the river clearly.  As the first boats slipped their moorings, headlights and navigations lights on, they appeared rather eerily out of the fog to disappear again just as quickly as they headed away upstream or down.  We were soon following those that had turned upstream, sailing on as the sun burnt off the dampness.  Here at Wallingford Fran & Geoff Beavan came back for one last visit this year.  It was nice to see them as well.  But the shows are over now and tomorrow we go on to the North of England and winter.            

Sunday 22nd August - Day's Lock near Dorchester on Thames - Boats, boats and more boats.  Leaving Fairport's Cropredy festival, going to the IWA National Boat Show or just holidaying on the water, the waterways are full of boats moving or moored.  Having let the first rush of boats get away from Cropredy last Sunday, on Monday morning we joined the queue at the first lock and made a slow journey back to Banbury where the moorings were almost full.  We had a little food left for a light lunch before walking to Morrisons to re-stock a very empty larder.  We have two rucksacks and some large re-useable carrier bags and except at a few canalside stores we do have to carry everything back to and along the towpath, sometimes quite a step.  The trick is knowing how much weight you can manage and good packing to achieve balance.  Once the muscles had recovered we headed on for a quiet countryside mooring.  On Wednesday afternoon we grabbed a mooring at the little village of Thrupp just a mile or so away from Blenheim Palace.  There we caught up with Val & Michael Lee aboard Nb Thistle heading for the Boat Show.  They had moored alongside us for a night at Cropredy and in the meantime Val had sorted the timetable for the RBOA stand.  We now have our duty roster for the Show.  Also visiting were Anne & Doug Shields, on a short break that included taking afternoon tea at Blenheim on Thursday.  Cucumber sandwiches and fairy cakes though nice were not very filling so later they drove down to Osney Bridge for a meal aboard Ramyshome.  Whilst they were sipping champagne and nibbling the sandwiches we were queuing at locks again as we came slowly back to the Thames.  It took over 5 hours to travel 9 miles and as we cruised beside the Port Meadows above Oxford, for the 3rd time this year, we didn't expect to find a mooring at Osney.  We needn't have worried, there was room for several boats.  Where had they all gone; Abingdon that's where.  We got the last mooring in the town on Friday lunchtime.  It was only a 24 hour mooring but after a negotiation with the lockkeeper we stayed a second night moored on the outside of Nb Thistle who had arrived that afternoon.  Another shopping trip here as it will be 10 days before we get to the food shops again.  Today we are back at one of our favourite Thames moorings; even here we couldn't get on the best section of the field moorings but we were still able to get out the deckchairs and sit in the sun.  A welcome rest after all that queuing and locking, interrupted only by the need to wave to all the passing boats.               

Sunday 8th August - Cropredy - For those of you who come to this site to read the latest instalment of our big adventure or just to see how far we have travelled in the last week we are sorry to say we haven't and next week we won't.  Cruise that is, although that's not strictly accurate.  Having completed all the necessary shopping by Sunday morning we decided to forgo the flesh spots of Banbury any further and head on north.  And so by Sunday afternoon we arrived at Cropredy - (which for no logical reason other than the English language, appears to be pronounced "Cropredy" by those in the know).  That too is not strictly accurate as Ramyshome is moored about a mile south of the village, against a nice solid edge that allows painting and polishing to proceed, at least on the starboard side.  The advice we had received to arrive well before the Festival was sound.  There were already a number of boat here when we arrived and as the week has progressed so they have continued to come until today there are almost a hundred boats lining the canal for a good mile either side of Cropredy.  We kind of feel sorry for the hire boaters and others passing through who were expecting to overnight around here, it's a long walk back to the pubs.  Almost as far for us to trolley a toilet cassette to the elsan point and return with a 25 litre container of drinking water - sort of re-cycling in reverse, three times a week.  On the positive side we have a pleasant view across open fields to a low horizon, the weather has been fairly kind, the village shop sells Marshfield ice creams, one of our favourites, and we have been getting to know our neighbours, Del & Al on board Derwent 6, fellow bloggers.  Although Ramyshome has not moved for a week the crew has not been idle.  As well as morning ball chasing sessions for Molly we have undertaken several long walks, achieving almost 10 miles yesterday across the field to Chipping Warden, another pretty yellow stone village, this time over the border in Northamptonshire.  Ramyshome's brasses are shining again and the starboard side gunwale now has a non-slip surface.  Yes, it has taken 3 years to complete but that's canal time and there is still the other gunwale to finish when we find a suitable portside mooring.  All in all we have enjoyed the stationary life this week and in the next few days it will have a musical accompaniment.     

Saturday 24th July - Folly Bridge, Oxford -  It's not just people who fall in rivers.  After seeing off our visitors on Sunday we spent the rest of the afternoon sitting in the sun watching the last of the air display.  Disturbed by a loud thump we turned around to find a cow, most of which was in the water between bank and boat.  It did look like it had been pushed in by a mooing mate.  No obvious damage to Ramyshome and seemingly none to the cow but she was stuck, unable to climb out.  By untying our mooring ropes and floating the stern out into the river we created enough space for her to turn around.  Then with a little encouragement she worked her way downstream until finding a shallow spot she climbed up on to the bank and ambled away none the worse for her mis-adventure.  On Monday after some grocery shopping we cast off again, sailed under Ha'penny Bridge and turned around to begin the journey back downstream to Oxford.  Going slowly into the second lock, Buscot, another splash and this time it was Molly in the water looking somewhat ill at ease.  The lifejacket we bought her several months ago finally came into its own as Roger eased off the throttle then reached down to grab the jacket handle and haul out a very wet dog.  Since then she has been a little reluctant to ride on the back deck!   After those events the week has been fairly run of the mill.  Uncertain as to the weather we sailed on to the meadow moorings at Rushey on Monday then, stopping for ice creams at Shifford Lock shop, to Bablock Hythe on Tuesday.  There are several 24 hour E.A. moorings here plus a big field for ball chasing but the pub still seems to have very limited opening hours.  Just a mile or so on to Pinkhill moorings on Wednesday allowed us to walk the 4 miles round Farmoor Reservoir and still no rain to speak off.  We spoke too soon.  Sailing beside the Port Meadows on Thursday those dreaming spires ahead disappeared into the storm.  With the wind in our faces we knew we couldn't escape the coming deluge.  There comes a point whilst steering a narrowboat through a thunder storm when the seeping rain overcomes the risk of putting up the umbrella.  By the time we reached the moorings below Osney Bridge there was almost as much water on the bank as in the river but at least the rain was easing now.  A damp cow, a very wet Molly, a drowned Roger but today Maureen bought a new bathing costume.  Could that be forward planning?                          

Sunday 18th July - Lechlade - It's a little over the top to claim the Red Arrows air display team came to celebrate our arrival at the navigable head of the River but they did follow us in as we came to Lechlade on Friday.  Whilst we moored up they continued on to RAF Fairford in readiness for the weekend's Air Tattoo.  From the pleasant meadow moorings below Lechlade bridge we had an excellent view of the airborne spectacle, an unexpected reward for our struggle through the wind and rain this week.  Having returned Maureen's parents to their car in Oxford and Roger having completed a quick trip north to deal with family matters Ramyshome slipped away from Osney on Tuesday morning.  Under grey skies we were required to take to the Oxford Canal again because of problems with the river banks above Osney.  Back on to the Thames via Dukes Cut, the upper river soon announces its character with two U-shaped bends.  Above Swinford Bridge more sharp bends and now the river is narrowing, many sections no wider than the K & A Canal.  The landscape changes quickly, wide open flood meadows to tight, tree lined reaches; the views all or nothing and the predominant colour, green.  Although there are few boats on the move there are plenty taking up the limited moorings and we have to push on in the rain through Eynsham and Pinkhill Locks for a first evening tied to a tree, a second narrowboat squeezing in behind us.  At least the moorings above Rushey Lock are more suitable for narrowboats and ball chasing dogs but Wednesday's rain is worse and the breeze is getting stronger.  Thursday more sharp bends, heavy showers and strong wind makes for a challenging day and to end it the moorings at Kelmscott appear to be occupied by unoccupied and unlicensed boats.  Fortunately we squeeze on to a high bank just upstream, still close enough to stroll back to the pretty village and Manor House, the country home of William Morris - the 19th Century Arts & Crafts man not the motor manufacturer.  Friday, the skies are brighter and the wind gentler but the river still has a few tight meanders left to challenge the steerer before it arrives at the wide open meadows and moorings below Ha'penny Bridge at Lechlade.  £4 per night to moor, shared with the cows and with lots of room for dogs to run.  Add an air show five miles down the road and we are lucky to get a mooring but having squeezed in we take pity on the next narrowboat and let them tie up alongside.  The added advantage of Lechlade is a car park for visitors nearby and on Friday evening daughter Heather and fiancé Chris arrive for a weekend visit.  They travel 200 miles in about 5 hours, we are now just 30 miles from Devizes.  We left there the first time two and half months ago.  How time flies when you are having fun.          

Friday 25th June - Reading - Tonight we are back on the Tesco moorings at Reading, not the prettiest place but with two attractions, the second being one of Reading's huge river meadows where Molly can run and chase her ball.  Very important that she gets her exercise each day, preferably before the temperatures rise to unbearable levels.     The decision to make shorter hops up river proves to be the correct one as temperatures soar and growing numbers of boats take to the river this week.  As we had expected moorings are becoming a little harder to find and we have to look for overnight berths by 3 pm or, if England are playing in the World Cup, even earlier.  First is Laleham then Windsor, returning to the same backwater, and here we welcome on board again Ken Fountayne, another RBS Sailing Club member.  In the afternoon we carefully reverse out to the main river and then go upstream passing all the posh houses at Bray to a very pleasant mooring just below Maidenhead Railway Bridge.  Back up Cliveden Reach to Cookham and Bourne End, we had hoped to moor at Marlow on Wednesday but that football match seems to have pulled the boats in early and we have to go on another 7 miles to find moorings at Remenham, below Henley.  We make it just after England score but at least TV reception is good enough to watch the rest of the then goalless game, sweating like the rest of the country with the tension or just the heat.  It was still £4 to moor in Windsor, £9 at Maidenhead, £6 here and £9 again at the Mill Meadows upstream of Henley Bridge where we stop on Thursday.  Henley is a little spoilt by all the traffic but the farmers' market offers a few goodies and the jug of Pimms and food at the Angel on the river terrace make for a relaxing afternoon.  We also find time to visit the River & Rowing Museum which sounds a little dull but in fact proves to be really interesting, well put together with a fascinating section all about the Thames.  The Rowing Section also holds the attention with a couple of hands on activities and makes two mentions of Bert Bushnell, an Olympic Champion whose name should be known to all RBS Sailing Club members.  Next week is Regatta week so no doubt traffic and prices will rise significantly.  £40 to moor.  Today we are joined by Ken's friend Lorna for the cruise on past Shiplake and Sonning to Reading.  It's just a short step to the Railway Station so they can return to collect Lorna's car.  Does that make a third attraction to mooring here?                   

Saturday 19th June - Shepperton - What a contrast is the Wey with the Thames; the latter wide and gently meandering, the former narrow and winding with several turns that test the steerer's skills. Locks to be worked yourself with a borrowed windlass and, because the Wey Navigation is owned by the National Trust, a licence fee to buy.  At £59 for 7 days we thought it a little steep but such a pretty river it is hard to match and the effort well rewarded.  Although its start is a little unpromising, once it escapes the surrounds of Weybridge and slides under the M25 the Navigation becomes altogether more charming.  At once engulfed with trees, soon there are wide flood meadows that spread halfway to the horizon, occasionally cows but more often horses grazing.  These meadows provide some ideal mooring spots.      We like Guildford.  Any city where you can look out from the High Street and see green fields gets high marks from us.  Look up instead of away to the horizon and there is also some splendid architecture on view.  Sadly the shops are pretty much what you can find in every town but few have a castle and pretty gardens just round the corner.  Sad too that the city presents such a poor face to the river but slip through Millmead Lock, negotiate another couple of tight turns and there are more of those flood meadow moorings.  Still an easy walk back to the High Street.     Its less than 2 hours cruising to the end of the "line" at Godalming although that assumes you can get under Broadford Bridge.  There are several low bridges on the Wey but this is the lowest, just 6 feet 4 inches in normal river conditions. We have to remove our chimney and TV aerial but still watch as the flowers in the roof boxes bend under the bridge beams.  It's very tight!  Godalming is a pretty place with riverside gardens and more interesting architecture in the High Street.  And although the moorings aren't spectacular you can wheel the Sainsburys trolley almost to the boat.     And all of this with visitors.  This time around our first overnighter is Geoff Beaven who arrives on Friday afternoon with wife, Fran and shares the cruise from Byfleet to Guildford.  The fee is a bag of laundry, which they return duly washed and ironed - the laundry that is - the following Thursday, plus a short car ride to RHS Wisley, a spectacular series of gardens, glasshouses and eateries.  On Wednesday we also provide bed and board for daughter Heather who has been working close by.  And now we are back to the Thames ready for the long journey upstream.  It won't be any prettier than the Wey.

Papercourt on the River Wey

Friday 11th June - Hampton Court - The Thames is the most egalitarian of rivers.  Whatever the depth of your pocket there is a riverside dwelling and a craft to suit.  Got a tent, here is a campsite, with tent provided if you require.  Just there a wooden shack, needing a little TLC.  Next a beautiful riverside house and further along a grand palace with garden to match.   From Shiplake all the way down to Hampton Court the Thames is at its grandest.  First comes Henley with its fine bridge and rowing regattas, preparation for which is well underway as we find our way amongst the rowers, obviously in training and hoping for success next month.  A long, winding reach takes us to Hambleden and after Hurley & Temple lock another sees us passing Bisham Abbey and a mooring above Marlow bridge.  Considerably less precarious than when we moored here 4 years ago, tied to the trees.  Delaying our arrival on to the Thames until after the Spring Holiday week clearly worked as the river is fairly quiet and moorings not difficult to find.  The next reach to Cookham Lock is one of the nicest, unusually rural for this part of the world, the views much broader now across the flood plain.  Bourne End looks like a pleasant place to live, the river full of moored boats.  The next reach is steeply wooded on the east side and looking back above the tree line the top storeys of Cliveden House can be seen, famous for that 1960's scandal.  Next comes Boulters Lock at Maidenhead made famous by a much older picture showing the lock full of skiffs and punts with blazered boaters and their ladies.  At Windsor we moor again in the little channel on the south side of the river and pay the same £4 as we did in 2006.  Still £6 cheaper than the all day ticket in the car park over the wall.  On Thursday we go on to Laleham, a pleasant mooring and village and today we have cruised on to Hampton Court, where as last time, we are moored below the golden gates.  The grandest mooring on a very grand stretch of river.  This is the furthest point downstream for us this year but we have thoroughly enjoyed our first taste of the Thames and will be ready for more when next week's Wey journey is complete.              

Saturday 5th June - Wargrave - One of the nicest moorings on the K & A is to be found alongside the meadows above Tyle Mill lock.  The trees on the north side of the River Kennet try hard to shut out the noise from the A4 and the occasional train whilst on the south side the cow chewed fields run half way to the horizon.  A more rural scene it is hard to find.  With winding holes marking each end of this reach, it is possible, when a better mooring comes free, to do as we did, simply turn around and go back.  On the first evening we lit our stove to relieve the cool, damp weather but by mid-morning of the following day we were sweltering as the temperature soared.  And there it has stayed, still almost 30 deg C at 7:30 this evening.  After the urban interlude of Newbury and Thatcham, as it approaches Reading, the scenery surprisingly becomes more pastoral again.  The valley floor spreads itself and the river begins to meander, like us, delaying its meeting with the Thames.  But finally, on Friday we said goodbye to the K & A as we rushed through the centre of Reading and on to Blakes Lock.  It has been more than 5 weeks since we set out from Lower Foxhangers.  In that time we have travelled 142 miles and passed through 127 locks.  The eastern half of the K & A is too much hard work to say it is delightful but it was enjoyable and we shall miss this oft maligned canal.  And so to the River Thames, which as always seems first alarmingly wide; full of big boats that create big waves but thankfully very docile, at least until the weather breaks.  The moorings beside Tesco's are Ramyshome's first resting place whilst the crew take to the store for supplies.  Although trolleys are not allowed to come as far as the towpath, as in other places, unloading takes place just a few yards back making it a good place to stock up on those weightier groceries.  Today we have made a start on our royal river cruise, passing by the first of many riverside and floating palaces.  Little sign of financial belt tightening here.  Ramyshome is getting used to the freedom and flow of the river and Roger to being addressed as "Skip" by the lockkeepers who do all the work.  Long may it continue - and it will, all summer long.

Regal living beside the Thames at Wargrave

Sunday 30th May - Woolhampton - We have been going downhill all this week (for years, we can hear lots of you chorusing) as we head inexorably to the River Thames.  29 locks, plus several swing bridges, in 22 miles.  Some of the locks and most of the bridges quite a challenge, with little evidence of maintenance since last we came this way.  For long stretches the canal is tree lined, allowing only snatches of the farther countryside.  However all is still green and pleasant and for a while we are accompanied by the growing River Dun.  Hungerford is the first town the canal engages with since Devizes. Although architecturally interesting and a good place to restock the larder it offers little to hold us more than overnight.  Just east of the town we get our first sight of the River Kennet and at Kintbury we dip our toes into its waters as one of its many streams crosses through the canal.  Kintbury is a pretty place with two pubs and two or three useful shops. The moorings, despite the proximity of the railway, are good and there are tracks for Molly to explore across the flat valley of the Kennet.  A horse drawn trip boat operates from Kintbury.  Trade must be good as for two days we meet up with them and watch how they negotiate locks - ropes everywhere.  On through the trees, in company with a another boat, we reach Newbury and moor above the lock in West Mills.  In contrast to Reading, Newbury has embraced the navigation, much of it river, and there is a choice of moorings on the fringes or close to the centre of town.  New buildings don't quite dominate the old and again there is some useful shopping to be had, as well as the K & A Museum.  We also take on more diesel, as we anticipate prices will be somewhat higher out on the Thames.  The short stretch of water through the town can be tricky when the flow is strong but although noticeable, it causes no problems.  We had hoped to stop before Thatcham but sadly there was nowhere to our taste along the way.  Not a very exciting mooring and the walk in to town not worth the effort.  Neither, sadly, was the walk back along the towpath to the Nature Reserve.  A rather sad and deserted spot in yesterday's damp conditions.  We saw a kestrel, a cormorant, several house martins and a grebe with three stripy youngsters.  But only the latter were actually in the reserve and all were spotted from the canal.  At least we got to hide away from the rain and spent much of the day reading the papers.  In sunshine again today we have pottered on to Woolhampton, sharing the lock work with another crew out just for the holiday week.  Poor souls.  Here four years ago we first met Klim & Tina Corke and they still haven't shaken us off!  On our journey from Devizes we have already passed two crews we count as friends.  Who will we meet this time around!  Just one of the many pleasures of boating.          

Saturday 22nd May - Crofton Pumping House - We finally left Devizes 753 days after Roger first arrived in readiness for his job with Foxhangers Canal Holidays.  It was a good move for us and we have enjoyed living and working in this part of England.  It enabled Maureen to re-connect with the Salisbury arm of her family and with Niki, her college friend.  We have also made several new friends here; we hope to meet them all again sometime soon.   The last thing we did before leaving was to take the visitor tour of Wadworth's Brewery.  We had been promising ourselves we would do so since about day 53 and it proved to be another worthwhile activity, not least the tasting session at the end.  Having tried six of their brews, and all before lunch, we sailed away from Devizes somewhat tipsy; perhaps the best way to leave this delightful town. The Long Pound, all 15 miles to Wootton Rivers is one of the prettiest and longest rural lengths of canal in the country.  Escaping the confines of the town, the landscape opens out as the K & A winds through the Vale of Pewsey.  It has been Spring each time we have cruised this stretch.  In high summer it must be gorgeous and the harvest colours will give an altogether different feel.  For now it is green and very much alive, although hardly a house, car or even person is to be seen for several miles.  We moor at Honey Street on the north side of the Vale so the chalk downs rise up almost immediately from the canal, their lumps and bumps not completely natural.  The White Horse, one of three to be seen along this route, stands gleaming following its re-whitening last year.  As the sun descends after a first hot day, two guitars are playing on the boat in front and 8 signets with their mum and dad take to the water for their own evening cruise.  Bliss.      As it reaches the pretty village of Wilcot the canal changes fashion, now lined with trees through which the occasional grand mansion can be glimpsed.  Passed Pewsey Wharf, we have visited the town and the French Horn pub several times, and on to Wootton Rivers where the final four uphill locks begin.  The summit pound is short hence the need for the Crofton Pumping Engines, alongside which we are moored tonight.  They used to pump water up from Wilton Water, six locks below. Now it is all done by electricity, much less attractive.  On the summit is the Bruce Tunnel, only short but seeming to be a full stop on the last 2 years of our lives.  In a few days we shall be gone from Wiltshire altogether.

Overnight mooring at Honey Street

Saturday 15th May - Foxhangers Wharf -   We came back from Bristol to Bath in one long afternoon.  Not the original plan.  It was gone 11 am before we left having made the required cruise around the harbour and stopped to empty toilets.  We made such good progress up river that when we stopped briefly for lunch at Hanham we decided, under brightening skies, to push on through Keynsham.  There was not quite enough room for us on the pontoon moorings at Bitton Railway Bridge so on we went, committed now to cruising all the way back to Bath.  Doing fine until the last lock, we came upon two damsels in distress with broken engine in need of our help. How could we do otherwise but as a result it was 8 pm before we moored again below Poulteney Weir.  Much too long a day for us.  Slipping up the 6 locks to Sydney Gardens on Monday morning we lounged for the rest of the day and on Tuesday we gently explored the delights of Bath, Bath Bun and all, topping it all off with an evening session in the bath house, better known as Bath Spa.  An expensive but very relaxing activity and a somewhat surreal experience, dining in one's swimming costume and bathrobe, trying to look suave and sophisticated!  Back to Claverton on Wednesday, by far the nicest moorings on this section of the K & A.  On Friday we pulled into The Boatyard at Hilperton to buy coal and diesel, our first experience of having to declare how much tax we wished to pay on diesel fuel.  What a crazy system.  The coal we required, having got through our stock because of the continuing cold weather.  Of course today, temperatures have started to climb and the forecast suggests we may well be carrying this coal all the way to Autumn. It makes for good ballast.  Climbing back up Seend Locks the landscape opens out to north and south revealing a vista bounded by Salisbury Plain and the looming chalk hills that indicate the start of the Marlborough Downs.  We shall get in amongst them in the next week or so.  Tonight however we are back where we started this journey.  Our mooring for the last 2 years is already occupied and Foxhangers Canal Holidays seems to have survived without us so tomorrow it will be onward and upward, quite literally as the first lock of the Caen Hill 29 lies immediately in front of us.

Saturday 8th May - Bristol Floating Harbour - Illness is never pleasant and the confines of a narrowboat seem to intensify the malaise.  With constant wheezing and sneezing caused by heavy head colds, this week has been tiring and not helped by a cold north easterly that has been blowing constantly. Nevertheless on Sunday we left Bradford and travelled on as far as Claverton, another 5 miles completed.  Following the River Avon and with the railway for company, the canal proceeds through a heavily wooded valley as far as Dundas, where for the second time it crosses both railway and river on a grand aqueduct.  A mile or so later having cleared the trees and with the valley widening are good moorings.  Down beside the river is Claverton Pump House, a water driven pump built in 1813, which for 150 years pushed water from the Avon up the valley side and into the canal.  Now restored by the Kennet & Avon Trust but no longer providing the service it once did, a few days a year the water wheel turns to drive the big pumps in demonstration of its former glory.  Well worth the visit, at least for the boys.  Higher up the valley, beyond the canal is the pretty village of Claverton.  An obviously wealthy place built of bath stone but in a range of architectural styles.  Further up the hillside stands Claverton House and the slightly surreal American Museum.  Why, in 1963 two Americans should wish to set up a museum of American social history in a large, English country house 4 miles outside Bath is not entirely clear but the result is fascinating and interesting.  Another "well worth the visit" sort of place.  3 miles passed moored boats brings us to Sydney Gardens moorings with rooftop views across Bath.  A very attractive city but in our current lethargy we plan to give it better regard when we return next week.  Instead we expend our energy descending the 6 locks to the river and after overnighting below Poulteney Weir head downstream.  Escaping the confines of Bath the valley is wide and winding with extensive views to the north as we descend 4 river locks to an overnight break at Keynsham.  Another two locks bring us to the tidal stretch and a 4-mile, closely wooded reach to the outskirts of Bristol.  The final 2 miles begin grimly but the entrance to the City Centre is better than most and the Floating Harbour almost unique.  From ocean going yachts to the humblest narrowboat we share the open water with a wide range of craft and moor looking across to The Matthew, a replica of Cabot's little ship of discovery.  On Saturday the ferry shuttles us across the harbour to the SS Great Britain, Brunel's first great liner.  From the decks we can look back to our own humble Ramyshome.  With a visit to Bristol's Hippodrome theatre in the evening we are in cultural mode once again.  In racing terms it feels like we have trotted down to the starting post ready for the "race".  And what better place to start a new adventure than Bristol.  Unlike Cabot however, for us, all is East from here.

Claverton Pumping House

Friday 30th April 2010  - Bradford on Avon - On the 28th April 2008 Ramyshome sailed away from Banbury to begin the second part of her journey from Loughborough to Devizes.  At the same time Roger was making the journey by car in readiness to start his employment with Foxhangers Canal Holidays the next day.  With a certain timely tidiness, Ramyshome slipped her moorings at Foxhangers Wharf on the 28th April 2010, turned around and headed west to begin another big adventure.  Two days later we have travelled 10 miles and passed through 8 locks.  Although geographically it is down hill all the way to Bristol this is a very pleasant part of the world.  The sunshine since Easter has brought out the May blossom whilst the occasional daffodil still trumpets.  Continuing the yellow theme, there are millions of dandelions along the canal and further off oilseed rape is flowering in a few of the fields.  To the south the edge of Salisbury Plain is slowly slipping away whilst behind us Roundway Hill still watches us go.  We stop for lunch opposite the Barge Inn at Seend Cleeve and later potter on to Semington, where we find the moorings full of visitors and "Crusty" regulars.  For the first time in years we have to use the plank to reach the bank.  Molly copes well with this bridge, perhaps more easily than the rest of the crew.  Unusually for us we are up early the next morning, well soon after 7:00, and after giving Molly the chance to run off some energy chasing a ball in the fields we cruise on towards Staverton and darkening skies.  After flirting with the northern edge of Trowbridge the canal becomes bounded by trees, emerging just a few miles on into Bradford on Avon.  By now the rain has come and we are very wet as we descend the lock to find a mooring amongst the towpath dwellers.  Bradford is called a mini Bath and with its yellow stone buildings tumbling down to the River Avon it is a very attractive town.  We have explored it several times in the last two years so are not encouraged to venture far whilst the rain continues to fall.  With its rail connection to Bristol it makes for a good spot to stay whilst Maureen takes our car north for its summer holiday in Harrogate.  She will return on Saturday ready to set sail again on Sunday.  But it kinda feels like we are on the move again.